A pre-delivery inspection (PDI) isn't about assuming your dealership is trying to cheat you. Dealerships run their own internal inspection before a car reaches the delivery bay — a PDI is the buyer's own, separate check that the exact vehicle being invoiced and registered in your name matches your booking, is free of visible damage, functions correctly, and comes with every accessory and document you were promised.
This is a long, practical checklist — well over 80 individual things to look at, grouped so you can work through it calmly. Use whichever sections apply to your vehicle — petrol, diesel, CNG, hybrid or electric; manual, automatic or DCT; 2WD, AWD or 4x4 — and skip the rest.
What Is a PDI, Exactly?
Your independent verification, done before accepting delivery, should cover: the correct vehicle and variant; VIN/chassis identity, matched consistently across the vehicle, dealer paperwork and invoice; the manufacturing period, and whether any gap has been explained; exterior and interior condition; tyres, wheels and mechanical/electrical function; included accessories exactly as promised; invoice, insurance and registration details matched to your booking; and no unexplained warning lights or signs of prior damage.
One detail worth knowing upfront: the VIN's physical location differs by manufacturer, and sometimes by model. Different Mahindra owner's manuals, for instance, place it under the driver's seat, on the B-pillar, or in the engine bay depending on the model — the manual for your specific XUV 3XO or XUV700 will say exactly where. Check your own vehicle's manual rather than a generic internet answer.
When Should You Actually Conduct the PDI?
A workable sequence, adapted to your dealership's process: get allocation details in writing; get the VIN/chassis number as soon as it exists, with proof it's genuinely yours; inspect the actual allocated vehicle, not a similar demo unit; complete the physical PDI; record any concerns in writing; confirm resolution in writing; complete payment, insurance and registration per your agreed process; then do a shorter recheck on delivery day itself.
Whenever the process permits, inspect the allocated vehicle before registration and final acceptance — registration makes resolving a replacement request more complicated, so document any material concern as early as possible. That said, don't take this as advice to delay a contractually due payment without first reviewing your booking terms; if a payment milestone is tied to a date rather than to PDI completion, check that before assuming you can postpone it.
What to Carry
Phone with a good camera and flashlight, a microfibre cloth, a charger or power bank, your printed or digital checklist plus booking form and the variant's official feature list, and a second person if possible. Optional: a tyre-pressure gauge, and a paint-depth gauge only if you already know how to interpret it. Do this in daylight, in a dry, open, uncovered area, without being rushed.
The Complete Checklist
A. Vehicle Identity and Allocation
- VIN/chassis cross-checked across the vehicle, dealer paperwork and invoice
- Engine/motor number matches
- Model, variant, fuel type, transmission and drivetrain match your booking
- Colour, seat configuration, battery version (EVs) and optional packs match
Don't rely on one universal VIN-decoding method for every manufacturer — not every VIN follows the same month-and-year convention. Ask your dealer for the manufacturer-specific method and cross-check against official manufacturer information.
B. Manufacturing Period and Stock Age
- Vehicle manufacturing date/markings
- Tyre manufacturing date (the four-digit sidewall code)
- Battery manufacturing date where marked
- Glass manufacturing date/code
- Manufacturing and sale-certificate details on the invoice
An older manufacturing date isn't automatically a problem — it depends on storage, ongoing maintenance, battery/tyre/paint/underbody condition, whether it affects your model year, whether a discount was already disclosed for the stock age, and whether your warranty start date is correctly set from registration. If the gap looks unusual, ask for written clarification on storage history, any updates applied, battery checks, warranty start date, discount, and whether it was ever a demo unit.
C. Odometer
- Photograph the reading immediately, with a timestamp
- Check trip meters, average consumption, and any visible drive or navigation history
- Check for transport-mode indicators or pending service alerts
There's no universal cut-off for an "acceptable" reading — small readings routinely come from factory movement, transport, and the dealership's own PDI test drives. If a reading looks unusually high, ask for a written explanation and confirm it wasn't used for demo drives or extended testing.
D. Exterior Inspection
- Bonnet, boot, door and bumper alignment and panel gaps, checked side to side
- Paint consistency — colour variation, scratches, dents, chips, swirl marks, overspray, paint on rubber seals, or touch-up signs
- All exterior lights, grille, badges, roof rails, spoiler, antenna
- Sunroof and window glass
- ORVMs, door handles, camera lenses, sensors
- Wipers and washer nozzles
- Fuel/charging flap
- Number-plate mounts and tow-hook cover
Commonly missed spots: bumper undersides, door edges, behind door handles, roof edges, the front bumper's underside, wheel arches, the boot sill, and the bonnet's underside — exactly where a repaired panel is easiest to spot. A repainted panel isn't automatically evidence of a major accident; it can also mean a minor transit scuff was touched up. It's worth a specific question, not an accusation.
E. Glass Inspection
- Cracks, chips, scratches or distortion in any panel
- Uneven sealing around windows or windscreen
- Demister-line damage on the rear windscreen
- Smooth powered-window and sunroof operation
- A clean, unobstructed area around any windscreen-mounted ADAS camera
Don't expect every glass panel to carry an identical manufacturing code — small differences can be normal. A significant, obvious inconsistency is worth a question, not an accusation.
F. Tyres and Wheels
- Brand, model, size and rating match across all four (and the spare)
- Tyres on the same axle match each other
- Manufacturing-date code on the sidewall
- Sidewall cuts, bulges, cracks, flat spots, uneven wear, or embedded objects
- Rim/wheel damage and correct wheel design
- Nuts/bolts present and not visibly loose
- Spare wheel condition, jack and tools
- Puncture-repair kit or inflator if that's what your variant ships with
- TPMS functioning and showing sensible readings
Tyres sold in India fall under BIS's compulsory certification scheme (see the BIS Scheme-I listing). For the correct cold pressure, don't use a number quoted for a different model — check the label on your driver's-side door frame or your owner's manual.
G. Engine Bay (Petrol, Diesel, CNG, Hybrid)
- General cleanliness with no oil/coolant leaks
- No loose wiring or disconnected hoses
- Secure battery terminals
- Fluid levels appear normal (checked visually, not by opening anything under pressure)
- Bonnet closes and latches properly
- No rodent damage, unusual corrosion, or tampering signs
- Normal start, idle and exhaust
- No unexplained warning after startup
Only do this once the vehicle is safely parked and cooled. Do not open a pressurised coolant reservoir, and don't touch moving parts while the engine is running or recently run — a visual check is enough for a PDI.
H. EV-Specific Checks
- Battery capacity/variant match
- State of charge on delivery
- Charging port and flap operate correctly
- Cables and adapters present and undamaged
- Connector condition and locking mechanism
- The vehicle actually accepts a charge
- Range display, regen settings and drive modes behave sensibly
- No HV/charging warnings
- Thermal-management indicators normal
- App pairing works
- Charger documentation and serial number present
- Any promised home-installation commitment documented in writing
The dashboard's range estimate is not a battery-health certificate — it's a driving-condition-dependent projection, not a lab measurement of pack condition.
I. CNG-Specific Checks
- The CNG system genuinely matches your booked model
- Cylinder markings and certification present
- Fuel-selector switch works
- CNG-level indication works
- Petrol/CNG mode switching, if safely demonstrable
- Filling-valve area intact
- No unusual smell or hiss
- CNG documents present
- Spare-wheel arrangement and boot configuration match what you were told
If you notice anything that smells like a leak, don't diagnose it yourself — hand it to authorised personnel immediately.
J. Interior
- Seats, upholstery and headrests — condition, adjustment, ventilation/heating if equipped
- Seatbelts retract and latch on all seats
- Dashboard, door pads, roof liner, carpets/mats, pedals, console, glovebox, cupholders, armrests
- Third-row seats where applicable
- ISOFIX anchor covers and anchors
- Boot trim, parcel shelf, spare compartment
- Handles, visors, mirrors, interior lighting
- USB/12V/wireless charging
- Keyless entry and push-button start
- Both keys present
- The mechanical emergency key inside the smart key
- Connected-car app activation
Watch for torn covering, stains, cuts, loose panels, rattles when you press on trim, missing caps, a damp smell, water-ingress signs, or a strong masking perfume covering up a smell you'd otherwise notice.
K. Electronics and Controls
- Instrument cluster
- Infotainment touch response and buttons
- Steering-mounted controls
- Bluetooth, Android Auto/CarPlay
- Speakers and mic
- Nav, radio, USB playback
- Reverse/360 camera clarity
- Parking sensors
- Horn and every light
- Wipers, washers, rear wiper, defogger
- ORVM adjust/fold
- Power windows, central locking, child locks
- Climate control front/rear
- Sunroof and powered tailgate
- Drive modes, auto-hold, e-parking brake
- Cruise control, hill-hold
- TPMS, rain-sensing wipers, auto headlamps
- Voice assistant and connected features
Some of these — cruise control, hill-hold on an actual incline, some ADAS features — genuinely need a safe road test or dealership demonstration, not a static walkaround.
L. Warning Lamps
A brief self-test before startup may light several lamps — expected. After startup, check that nothing unexplained remains lit:
- Check-engine, airbag, ABS, stability control, brake system
- Battery/charging, oil pressure
- TPMS, ADAS warnings, HV/EV system, power steering
Contextual indicators can legitimately stay lit without meaning anything is wrong — a seatbelt reminder, parking-brake indicator, open-door warning, or low-fuel light.
M. ADAS and Safety Equipment
Verify what's actually promised for your exact variant, since safety lists commonly differ between trims:
- Airbag count/location, ABS/ESC, hill-hold/descent control
- ISOFIX, TPMS, parking sensors/cameras, blind-spot monitoring
- Forward-collision warning, AEB
- Lane-departure/keep assist, adaptive cruise
- Driver-attention monitoring, traffic-sign recognition
Don't try to live-test AEB or lane-keeping by deliberately provoking them during delivery — ask your salesperson to demonstrate the settings and confirm calibration instead.
N. Short Functional Drive (If Allowed, Somewhere Safe)
- Steering centres properly with no pull
- Brakes feel consistent
- Parking brake releases cleanly
- Clutch engagement and gear shifts feel smooth, with no unusual clutch bite point
- Automatic gear selection feels normal, with no hunting or harsh shifts
- Reverse works without hesitation
- No unusual low-speed suspension noise or vibration
- For AWD/4x4 variants, ask for a brief demonstration of 4WD or differential-lock engagement, and check for leaks around the transfer case
- Cluster/camera/sensor readings stay stable
- No new warning appears
Worth knowing: several owners in real ownership-community discussions have independently reported the car pulling slightly to one side around the 1,000km mark — worth rechecking alignment at your dealer if you notice it. A short PDI drive catches obvious defects but can't prove anything about long-term reliability.
O. Underbody (Visual Only)
Check what you can see without crawling under an unsecured vehicle:
- Visible fluid leaks
- Hanging or loose panels
- A scraped underbody or damaged exhaust
- Bent heat shields, impact marks, or inconsistent corrosion
- For EVs, damage to the battery's underbody protection
- Missing fasteners or unusually extensive wear signs
A proper look at a lifted car needs the dealership's own equipment — this is about what you can see standing next to the car.
Documents to Verify
Every detail should match both the vehicle and the purchaser exactly: final invoice and payment receipts; booking receipt; insurance policy; registration application along with Form 20, Form 21 and Form 22 (below), plus temporary registration where applicable; loan/hypothecation paperwork if financed; extended-warranty certificate and roadside-assistance details if purchased; warranty booklet and owner's manual; service booklet or digital activation; accessory invoice, FASTag details, pollution documents where applicable; EV battery-warranty documents and charger invoice/installation paperwork; CNG documents for CNG variants.
Three forms have official public templates worth knowing:
- Form 20 — application for registration/temporary registration: parivahan.gov.in Form 20
- Form 21 — sale certificate supporting a registration application: parivahan.gov.in Form 21
- Form 22 — certificate of compliance with emission/noise standards: parivahan.gov.in Form 22
- Full index of vehicle forms: parivahan.gov.in forms index
Check field by field against your signed quotation: owner's name, address, PAN or other submitted ID information, model, variant, colour, fuel type, VIN/chassis, engine/motor number, financier details, insurance IDV, add-on covers, nominee details, registration state/RTO, invoice value, discounts, and accessories billed.
Also confirm every promised item is physically present: keys, spare wheel and puncture kit, jack, wheel spanner, tow hook, warning triangle, first-aid kit, floor mats, mud flaps, boot mat, parcel tray, charging cables, inflator, tool kit, manual, warranty documents, plates, FASTag, and any dealer-fitted accessories along with their installation quality. If an electrical accessory was dealer-fitted, ask directly whether it affects your warranty and whether any factory wiring was cut — a proper install shouldn't need to.
What to Do If You Find a Problem
Minor and correctable — a missing mat, a removable stain, an incomplete software setup: note it and get a written commitment on when it'll be fixed. No reason to hold up delivery.
Requires proper assessment — a paint mismatch you can't explain, a damaged tyre, an unexplained warning light, a non-working feature: pause acceptance until it's properly inspected and resolved — don't accept a verbal "it's nothing."
Material mismatch or serious concern — the wrong variant, a VIN that doesn't match your paperwork, major damage, or unexplained extensive prior use: don't casually accept assurances. Escalate in writing before registration and delivery.
A workable escalation sequence: photograph and record the issue; note the VIN, odometer, date and location; inform your sales adviser; follow up by email to the dealership for a written record; ask for the service/technical manager to inspect it directly; get the proposed remedy in writing with a timeline; escalate to the GM or the manufacturer's customer care if unresolved; and for a genuinely material dispute, consider independent technical or legal advice. Documentation is more valuable than confrontation.
Delivery-Day Recheck
Do a shorter recheck even after an earlier PDI — cleaning, accessory fitting, charging and simply moving the car can change small things: same VIN and odometer as before (or a sensibly explained difference); fuel/charge level as agreed; exterior and interior condition unchanged; no new warning lights; both keys present; all accessories and documents present; insurance active and correct; FASTag linked; plate fitted correctly; app pairing working; and emergency contact/service-centre/roadside numbers noted before you leave.
Before driving away: adjust seat, steering and mirrors properly; pair your phone only once parked; learn how the gear selector and parking brake work on this specific car; find the hazard-light switch and demister controls before you need them; confirm the fuel type with whoever hands over the keys; check tyre pressure against the door-frame label; and try not to make your first drive happen under delivery-event time pressure.
Frequently Asked Questions
Should a PDI be done before registration? Whenever your dealership's process allows it, yes — registration generally makes resolving a replacement request more complicated, though exactly how much depends on the manufacturer, dealership policy, and the facts of your case.
Can a dealership refuse a PDI? It depends on your specific dealership's policy and what you agreed at booking, not one universal rule. If a dealership is reluctant, ask in writing what their own internal PDI covers, and raise it with the manufacturer's customer care if it feels unreasonable.
How much odometer reading is acceptable on a new car? No single number applies everywhere — small readings from transport and internal testing are common. If a reading looks high for your situation, ask for a written explanation rather than assuming either outcome.
How do I check a manufacturing date from the VIN? The decoding convention isn't the same across every manufacturer. Ask your dealer for the manufacturer-specific method and confirm it against official manufacturer information.
Is an older manufacturing date a reason to reject a car? Not automatically — it depends on storage, condition of battery/tyres/paint/underbody, warranty start date, and whether a discount was already disclosed. Ask for written clarification if the gap looks unusual.
Should I hire a professional PDI service? It's a popular choice in owner communities and can be worth the modest cost for peace of mind, especially if you can't read a paint-thickness gauge or judge tyre wear yourself. Whether it's necessary depends on your own comfort inspecting a car.
Can a new car have repainted panels? Yes, and it isn't automatically evidence of a major accident — a touched-up transit scuff is a plausible minor explanation. Worth a specific question, not an automatic red flag.
Is a test drive necessary during a PDI? A short one, where safely allowed, catches obvious mechanical issues a static inspection can't. It's worth doing where possible, but it can't prove anything about long-term reliability.
Real Owner Experience Worth Knowing
A few patterns recur often enough in Indian owner communities to be worth mentioning, not as universal rules but as things to know going in. Getting an independent third-party PDI before accepting delivery is one of the most consistently and strongly recommended actions across owner discussions. A few dealerships are reported to discourage buyers from bringing outside inspection tools like an OBD scanner or paint-thickness gauge; one workaround owners have used is simply introducing the inspector as a friend or relative, rather than announcing it as a professional inspection service.
On verifying delivery status: don't rely purely on a salesperson's verbal assurance that your car is "allocated" or "on the way." Asking for your VIN or chassis/engine number as real proof of billing, and checking whether your car shows up (rather than "NA") in the manufacturer's own tracking app, is a more reliable way to confirm your vehicle genuinely exists in the backend system before you get your hopes up about a delivery date.
A genuinely detailed third-party PDI goes well beyond a quick walkaround — one real review described tyre-tread measurement, paint-thickness checks across multiple panels, and a written report flagging a minor paint chip for the dealer to fix before delivery. That's a reasonable bar to hold your own inspection to as well, time and tools permitting.
Keep the Record, Not Just the Memory
Your inspection shouldn't disappear into your phone's photo gallery. Save the VIN, delivery-day photographs, invoice, insurance, warranty documents, tyre details, first odometer reading and the promised service schedule in one place while they're still easy to find. DriveCircle is built around exactly that idea — a vehicle profile that starts on delivery day, a document vault for the invoice and warranty paperwork, insurance and PUC reminders, a service-history timeline that starts from your first entry, fuel-cost tracking from your first tank, and maintenance reminders that build on the exact odometer reading you recorded at handover. The goal is for your vehicle's history to start from delivery day, not from the first time something goes wrong.
A few related reads if you're deep in the buying-and-delivery process: negotiating insurance, loans and dealer accessories before you sign anything, choosing between EV, hybrid, CNG and petrol if you're still deciding on fuel type, what ADAS and safety features actually mean for your exact variant, whether PPF or ceramic coating makes sense once the car is yours, how to think about service costs over the vehicle's life, and what to expect in the first 90 days of ownership once the PDI is behind you.
Other references cited above: the BIS Scheme-I compulsory certification listing for automotive tyres, and the Parivahan Form 20, Form 21, Form 22 and full forms index.
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